The ppi (pixels per inch) or dpi dots per inch really means nothing. What? it only means something when you print or view on a monitor. There is no such thing as a dSLR with 300 ppi or 72dpi etc.

For example... Let's say you have a 12 megapixel camera. On the long side, the pixel count is about 4200. That means that a print, 10 inches on the long side will have about 420 pixels per inch. Make sense?

That's all it is. Until you print it or view it.. it all means nothing.

Where it does limit you is to a particular print size. For example, let's say you have a requirement by a photography class or client, and they want no less than 300ppi, that means you can only go up in print size until you reach that. That happens around a 11x14 size with a 12 MP camera.

Highly recommend Canon Rebel XS.DSLR camera can take far better than point & shoot.

They are both excellent entry level cameras. The bodies are on par and which you buy has more to do with the camera system you decide to build .. changing between DSLR camera makers is far too expensive to be a viable plan, so choose wisely.

Currently both Nikon and Canon supply all the cameras and lenses used by the photographers who shoot for "deadline" clients (news, sports, etc).

When it comes to the most bang for the buck, Nikon seems to have the system for entry level photographers.

The best thing to do, is to just go into a camera store and hold both cameras in your hands ... if you really want to test them, take an SD memory card with you and shoot using both cameras, using their respective 18-55 mm lenses at the lowest and highest ISO settings. Take the card home and look at the results.

Have a look in your Instruction Manual...page 75, 'Bulb Exposures'.

Here's the Rebel product line:
Digital Rebel (300D) --> Digital Rebel XT (350D) --> Digital Rebel XTi (400D) --> Digital Rebel XSi (450D)
After the XSi was released, a new, lower-end/priced line was introduced:
Digital Rebel XS (1000D)

Differences of the XS include:
two more megapixels
larger screen
live view
longer burst length

You can read reviews on all the Canon dslrs here:
http://the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/C…

You have it right! They claim to be macro.

When you consider that a real macro lens costs from about $500 to $800, you can see why a $50 add-on lens cannot do the job right.

There are many cheap semi-macro lenses around. They are not true macro lenses. In fact, they are just variable diopters and are uncorrected for colour aberrations. For example when you search the Internet, you will see many 0.45x lenses that claim to be fisheye, macro lenses. They are neither.

If you can find some extension tubes for your camera, they will do a better job, getting you closer to your small subjects.

Call Canon and ask them what length extension tube will work best for your standard lens. 800.OK-CANON

The Canon EOS Rebel XS is the "little brother" of the Canon EOS Rebel XSi which means they are both almost the same camera, but the XSi has more to offer than the Canon EOS Rebel XS. Perhaps consider basing your buying decision on how serious you will be taking up digital SLR photography. If you firmly believe that you will take digital SLR photography very seriously in the long run and want a solid entry-level digital SLR camera, then the Canon XSi may be a better choice for you.
If price is your main concern and you are only looking for Canon's bottom entry-level digital SLR model, then the current price of the Canon EOS Rebel XS kit is quite worthy of a purchase consideration.
Here are the differences between the Canon EOS Rebel XS and the XSi:
- The XSi has more megapixels at 12.2MP while the Canon EOS Rebel XS is 10.1MP.
- For JPEG, the XSi can continuously shoot at 3.5 fps while the Canon EOS Rebel XS can do 3.0 fps. But for RAW, the XSi is much better at 3.5 fps while the Canon EOS Rebel XS can only do 1.5 fps.
- The LCD monitor of the XSi measures 3.0 inches while the Canon EOS Rebel XS has a smaller screen at 2.5 inches.
- The XSi has a 9-point AF system while the Canon EOS Rebel XS has only a 7-point.
- The XSi has Spot metering while the Canon EOS Rebel XS does not. Both have Evaluative, Partial, and Center-weighted metering, however.
- The XSi RAW is 14-bit while the Canon EOS Rebel XS RAW is 12-bit.
- XSi has Highlight Tone Priority while Canon EOS Rebel XS does not.
- The viewfinder of the XSi provides 0.87x magnification while the Canon EOS Rebel XS provides 0.81x.
- The XSi can utilize the RC-1 or the RC-5 wireless remote shutter release, but the Canon EOS Rebel XS is not compatible with either so you won't be able to use a wireless remote release.
- You cannot buy the Canon EOS Rebel XS without the kit lens

What price range?

If you're looking for something to compliment your 18-55 you may look into a 75-300mm lens, or if that's just too long the 28-135 3.5-5.6 IS is a pretty good walk around lens. It's not great close in (28mm) but for out in the yard or at the park it's a good focal length.

The 24-70 that was mentioned above me blows either of these lenses away, but it cost's over $1k.

The key to getting a good moon shot is use a FAST shutter speed. You will need to set the camera in manual mode. Otherwise the moon will just come out as a white highlight.
Also use a lower ISO (400 or lower) to reduce noise for the next step.
Crop the photo and adjust the photo's contrast using a photo editor
With a 300mm lens, and a heavy crop you should get a nice shot of the moon, face included. A huge trick is to take shots of the moon when it's out during the day. You will find you get much better shots of the "day" moon.


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What's happening is that your camera is looking at the scene and mostly seeing dark (because the sky is dark). Then the camera chooses exposure settings in an attempt to brighten up the sky. In doing so, it overexposes the moon and causes it to be a white blob.

There are two ways to get around this:

1) Use center-weighted metering and put the moon directly in the middle of the frame. The only problem with this method is that I don't think your camera has center-weighted metering.

2) Use full manual mode. Set your ISO to 100 and your aperture to f/8 or so. Then try different shutter speeds until you get one that exposes the moon nicely.

Of course, for both these methods you should be using a good tripod.

To clean the LCD and lens, a microfiber cloth and a blower is usually all you need. Microfiber cloths are pretty much the cloth that you wipe spectacles with, you can get them anymore, for cheap. Blowers are usually available at any photographic equipment tool. Just opt for the cheaper squeeze type, as opposed to the pressurized air in a can.

I dont see why leaving the lens in a camera bag with it facing up would ruin it in any way O_O When a lenses is not going to be used in a extended period of time, replace both the rear and and front caps, place it in a camera bag in a dry, cool, dark place for storage. If you have a lens attached on the camera, it's best to just leave it there unless you're changing lenses. That way, you'll avoid dust from entering and adhering itself onto the camera sensor.

Those lens protectors you are talking about are called lens filters. Most people buy a UV filter and leave it on the lens all the time. They come relatively cheap, and a cracked filter is certainly a lot cheaper to replace than a cracked lens. UV filters do not alter image quality. If you're concerned with flare or ghosting, opt for a multi-coated one. You can tell from a coated filter from a non-coated filter from the reflection it makes. Coated ones are usually have dark magenta, green reflections, while non-coated ones have clear reflections, much like the ones you see from a glass window. To me, they make relatively little difference to image quality. If you're concerned with flare, attach a lens hood or block the light source.

wow u should really read the book if you're going to buy that kind of a camera...

It's actually very easy to do.

This guide should help you out...
http://www.photoguides.net/light-graffit…

As far as changing your aperture goes, just change the dial on your camera to either A or M. A is Aperture priority and M is manual mode.
You can find out more about these settings here...
http://www.photoguides.net/understanding…

Hope that helps

I've seen some great work done with the kit lens. A better lens is not going to automatically give you professional pictures. If you're looking for better pictures. Consider learning how to use your camera first. Enroll in a photography class. Try different compositions.

Another thing to consider is to buy a flash. This will make your portraits look a hundred times better. Remember to bounce the flash up to the ceiling to provide great natural looking light.


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The lens you have is perfectly capable of producing professional looking photos. That is a function of the skills of the photographer, not the equipment.

http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/notcamer…

This site will help you get better, more professional looking photos even using your nice 18-55 mm lens.

http://photoinf.com/General/Robert_Berda…

Landscapes, you need a wide angle lens like the fine EF-S 10-22 mm
Portraits, the 50 mm f/1.4 is the best choice.
The most versatile lens is the 18-200 mm IS

Really the next lens you buy, needs to be based upon the subjects you shoot, not the lenses reputation.

The Canon "L" series is their top of the line pro-quality lenses.

For real macro photography either the EF 50mm f2.5 Compact Macro or the EF 100mm f2.8L Macro IS USM would be good choices. I use a 100mm macro lens since I like the longer working distance from bees and/or wasps.

For wide sweeping landscapes the EF-S 17-55mm f2.8 IS USM or the EF 16-35mm f2.8L II USM would be good choices in my opinion.

If you'd like a longer zoom lens then the EF 70-200mm f2.8L IS USM is worth considering.

NOTE: If you think you'll eventually upgrade to a Canon full-frame DSLR like the 5D or 1D then you shouldn't buy EF-S lenses since they can't be used on the full-frame bodies.


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I own an XS and use an 18-200 because it's so versatile. However it probably won't suit what you want to do.

You will find this site interesting;
http://lightingmods.blogspot.com/2008/04…

I use the Canon Speedlite 580EX II, which I like a lot... the 430EX and 430EX II are a little cheaper and work pretty well too.

Does the gray smudge only appear on the display (at the back of the camera) or does it also appear on the image itself? If it appears on the image, it is very likely that there is dust on your sensor. See link (below) for an example of what dust looks like.

If there is dust, you need to clean the sensor to get rid of it.

As for the fish eye lens, you can buy it in a brick & mortar store that sell photo equipment, or order one from a webshop (B&H in New York is my favorite place for buying gear, both IRL, and on the web). You can also look on eBay, but a lot of the add-on "fish eye" lenses offered eBay is (IMHO) junk.
http://hannemyr.com/photo/defects.html#d…

Yes. All canon EF lenses will operate on all canon ES bodies.

The 35-80 is an EF lens so yup.

It is also a pretty old and pretty basic lens, my feeling is that the higher resolution 7D will really start to show its shortcomings. You are putting used cross-plys on a brand new porsche. Think retread.

CS3 will do a great job editing raw formats. You need to open the images under Adobe Camera Raw (ACR) which is accessed via CS3's File>Open menu. Be sure you have the newest version of ACR. If you have an older version of ACR, your camera may not be supported. You can go to Adobe's web site and download it for free. Adobe is constantly updating ACR to handle the latest cameras.

According to:
http://www.digicamhelp.com/blogs/random-…
"The XSi takes both a wireless and wired remote control.
The XS only uses a wired remote."

Neither. Both are excellent cameras made by the two camera companies that make the cameras that the pros use.

Which one you choose will have to do with which fits your hands the best or which one is easiest to use when making changes in the cameras menu.

You can get a lot more bang for the buck if you spend $500 on the Nikon D40 with both a 18-55 mm and 55-200 mm VR.

No matter which camera you buy, you will be replacing it in three to five years due to advances it technology, but the lenses will last for decades.

The manual should cover that. In fact it is probably right in the beginning. You should charge it, and the charger should have an indicator light telling you when it is fully charged.

Honestly both are great beginner cameras. You say that you checked Flikr and the Nikon looks better. That has got to do with the person using the camera more so than anything else and then it would be the lenses they were using. The lens you use will be the biggest determiner of the quality of the pictures you take. A cheap lens on an $8,000 camera you will get poor results. If you put a top quality lens on a cheap camera you wouldn't be able to tell the difference between the good camera and the cheap camera.Both cameras will give you professional quality results if you know how to use them.

Have you gone to a camera store and played with them yet? Before you buy any camera you should do this. One will feel better in your hands than the other. Remember also that you are buying into a system of lenses and flashes. Lenses are not interchangeable between brands so if you decide later to switch brands it can be very expensive. Most lenses cost as much or more than the camera. So be absolutely sure you like the brand you choose.

You can't go wrong with either brand though. They both make top quality cameras. 90% of professionals use one brand or the other.

any sd card will work, unless it is a SDHC-HD memory card, those only work with HD compatible images and videos.

head to your nearest walmart, walgreens, cvs, target, best buy, etc. and they will have the standard sd cards, ranging from $10 to like $70 depending on the size. I got 2 1gigs at target for 14.95, also i got 8gig at best buy for 29.99. All you have to do is find the right size for you.

Make sure not to confuse them with an XD picture card, or a Micro SD.
PNY is a good brand, that is compatible with a lot of brands, also PQ1, Lexar and Fujifilm are good. Cannon also offers name brand sd's but you will also have to shell out the wads for them. Just make sure you read the package to make sure it is compatible.

Any EF lens will fit both cameras. Some of the lenses made for the digital Rebels won't fit the film SLR. Those are EF-S lenses made for the smaller DSLR format.

In general, EF lenses fit all Canon EOS SLRs, whether digital or film. EF-S lenses fit the APS-C sized DSLRs - that's all Canon's DSLRs except the 1D and 5D models.

A true macro lens is considered a "prime lens" - a fixed focal length such as 50mm, 60mm, 90mm, 100mm. In my opinion, zoom lenses that use "macro" in their description are misleading and should be called "close focusing".

A true macro lens is designed to perform at very close distances. It has minimal light fall-off from center to edge and maximum sharpness from center to edge. It has a flat field of focus which is needed for photographing stamps or paintings or any flat surface subject. With a true macro lens you get a 1:1 (life-size) image of your subject. A 10mm long insect will be 10mm long on your sensor. A "macro zoom" will seldom give you more than a 1:4 (1/4 life-size) image so your 10mm insect will be 2.5mm on your sensor.

I have used a 100mm macro for years and prefer its longer working distance when bees are my subject. There is also less chance of interfering with the light with a longer working distance.

The Tamron 90mm macro has gotten good reviews. Of course the Canon 100mm would be your first choice if money isn't an issue.

Try taking pics with shallow depth of field (one object in focus, rest blurred) - for an arty effect.

To do that you either position yourself close to the object you want in focus - with your camera set to "P" (program automatic) - everything else will tend to blur. Or, use your "A" (aperture priority mode) setting - with the aperture open as wide as your lens will allow (e.g., small aperture number) and focus on the object, near or far, that you want to be in focus. The rest should blur out so that your key subject pops.

Good luck! You can find good photog books that teach you different tech features to try out - with aperture, shutter speed, exposure, composition.

I recommend Canon EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM SLR Lens.
I recently bought this lens, and even though I knew the mathematics, the increase in field-of-view it provides over the 17-85mm IS still surprised me when I first looked through that lens. I'm in the process of selling a house, and this lens is great to take the indoor pictures for the various ads (although it's also easy to make every room look like a deep tunnel -- composition gets a little trickier).

So far the imaging qualities seem to be better than any other lens I own (I don't have canon L-glass). The construction is also quite good -- on par with the 17-85mm IS, I'd say. Size and weight are also similar to the 17-85, which makes it a great match for a 20D camera.

This lens' weakest feature is it's maximum aperture: f/3.5 at the wide end is not horrible, but I always long for faster optics.

Not cheap, but it seems superior to the alternatives in its class.

You may find this hard to believe but the full moon can be successfully photographed at f16 with a shutter speed of 1/ISO. So if you set your camera to ISO 200 you will get good exposures at f16 @ 1/200 sec.
This is because the moon is a sun lit object so photographing it is no different than photographing a meadow in full sun. You might want to try one at f16 @ 1/200 sec. at 0 EV and then one at -1/2 EV and one at -1 EV. So put your camera in Aperture Priority and set your metering to "Partial 9% at center" if you want to use the EV function. If you decide to shoot in Manual and want to use -EV then you can adjust the shutter speed (1/150 sec. or 1/100 sec.).

To get really good moon pictures you need at least a 300mm focal length lens.

The Canon Rebel XS is the next evolutionary step of the EOS Rebel lineup. It is a few years newer, it uses an upgraded sensor and processing engine, and it has in camera sensor cleaning (not a magic bullet but it's better than nothing). The Canon Rebel XS also takes SD cards and it has a higher fps rating with a higher sustained fps rating as well (even higher than the next step up, the XTi). It also comes with an image stabilized lens (when bought from a reputable dealer), the image quality is the same but you can shoot in slightly less light.

If you don't find an Canon Rebel XT for a bargain basement price I'd get the Canon Rebel XS, but if you can find it really cheap you could use that extra cash to buy a different lens like the 75-300.

The important question is what is the thread diameter of the lens you want to put this Polarizer onto?

It really depends on what you need.
G10 is a high-end P&S camera, with a smaller CCD compared with a DSLR. It does not allow you to change lens and you are stuck with a fixed zoom range.
On the other hand, you will get more flexibility if you choose a DSLR, which allow you to upgrade the lenses according to your needs.
Also, in the event you wish to upgrade later, you can just change the body, you can still use the lenses in the new body. Whereas for G10, you cannot do anything.

Here's a link to your manual. http://media.the-digital-picture.com/Own… . The instructions for shooting black and white are on page 68. It would be alot easier just to convert the photo using image editing software. Gimp is the most powerful and can do almost anything Photoshop can. But it has a high learning curve. Another easier to use program is Paint.Net. http://www.paint.net/ You have a lot more control over how the image looks using a photo editor than letting the camera make the decisions for you.

What photoace said...
Or buy a cheap generic rubber lens hood, $10 or less. Extend the hood and use it as a place to tape any shape you care to cut out of heavy construction paper, preferably black. This would allow different shapes, not just cut off the corners. Diamonds and keyholes and hearts... that sort of thing.

Canon Speedlite 220EX is a good flash for Canon Rebel XS, you can find it on www.fumfie.com

Those two cards are both really good. If you need the speed, then get the Extreme III. This is useful for burst mode, where it shoots continuously. If you don't do that kind of photography, the Ultra II will do. There really isn't that much of a difference, as far as I have seen.

Take the camera out of 'auto'.

Use it using the aperture priority mode and adjust the aperture until the camera shows that you are shooting at high enough shutter speed to hand hold without camera movement causing a blurred image

There really is a lot of information in your cameras user manual.

Download it in a PDF file and you can use the "find" feature to search for specific questions.

That depends on the file type of the pictures ("raw" isn't a file type), but GIMP should work. http://www.gimp.org/

No it does not. The Canon T1i and 5D Mark II both have video capability. The T1i is more affordable.

Short and simple answer "NO" the battery charged by via a charger which the USB cord is only used to downloading photos onto the computer.

If you could give a couple more details, it would help. What was the shutter speed is maybe the key.

Some things to check. The AF/MF switch on the lens controls whether you are in AF (autofocus) or MF (manual focus). Switch to AF if it is not already there.

Depending on the mode you have selected, you may be shooting with too slow of a shutter speed (camera blur can sometimes be confused with out of focus). Try taking pictures outside in the sun and see if it is still an issue. Indoors, it is difficult to get a good exposure without a flash unless your camera is on a tripod.

Although there are several DSLRs with Live VIew your Canon XS is NOT one of them.

RAW is disabled in "creative" mode, i.e. the little icon on the knob. Go to manual, P, AV or TV mode. Then go to the menu to choose RAW format instead of JPG.

Yes, of course the new Canon EOS Rebel XS (1000D) supports SD and SDHC (high capacity SD) memory cards. Your Instruction Manual has this information.
All cameras released early 2007 support SDHC cards.
Just make sure you buy a fast enough one. I recommend the very popular and reliable, Sandisk Extreme III SD or SDHC.
format it before you use it...

manual is fine if thats what you prefer, as a guide the camera should indicate when you are in focus by means of a small green circle in the viewfinder.

The supplied lens doesn't have a great deal of 'throw' on it, and most of canons budget and non-L lenses are pretty poorly dampened, as such you may find using AF easier.

Apart from that the viewfinder in the XS is pretty small, pretty dark and hard to gauge accurate focus with. As such I would opt for AF.

The way to do use AF is to move to P mode rather than the green square mode. Select one shot AF mode, select the centre AF point only (this works best in low light)

Point your the centre focus point over the subject, half press, the point should flash and the green circle should appear, keep the pressure on the button, recompose then depress completely.

The lenses are compatible. They both can use EF and EF-S lenses.
The memory cards are different... the XT uses CF cards, the Canon Rebel XS uses SD cards.
The batteries are also different.

No. Canon uses SD cards. No adapter that I know of will make it fit. Gonna have to buy new, but SD is MUCH cheaper than Memory stick. 2 gig card for $8-10 instead of $25-30. Buy a couple.

Source(s):

It depends on what lens you have. If it's not designed to focus that closely, you can't.

Even if you have a macro lens that can focus that closely, have someone else take the photo. It's too difficult to do it yourself.

Without a moment's hesitation - here is what you want:http://www.usa.canon.com/consumer/contro…
That lens pretty much lives on my camera, it is an L lens, it is fast, it is tack sharp, it is wonderful!

No. The only DSLR's that do are the Canon 5D, Mark II ($2,700) and the Nikon D90 ($1,000)

yep, the viewfinder is the way to go. As you learn more about your camera (the manual will seem a little dry - but read it - try a few things and read it again - it will sink in!) you really will appreciate the flexibility in the camera.

If you read the manual but are puzzeled on something, people on Answers are more than happy to help!

Charge them fully each time, they are lithium Ion batteries, they don't suffer from memory loss effect, and Lithium Ion batteries can actually lose their life if you let them drain all the way often.